The Ultimate 2 Days in Venice

Venice can be a very divisive place - some people come away complaining about the tourists, the overwhelming crowds, the insanity of it all and others find it to be a dream scene straight out of a movie. I think a lot of this has to do with the number of fellow tourists around. Because of Covid, there are currently far fewer tour groups visiting Venice than usual. In addition, from 2023, Venice will be levying a tax on tourists visiting just for the day.

In order to have a 'dream scene' experience of Venice rather than an 'overwhelming crowds' one, I have three top tips:

1. Visit off-season: Visit between May - June or after August to avoid crowds but while still getting the warm Venice vibe

2. Stay overnight: I don't think a day trip to Venice gives you quite as magical an experience as staying overnight. Seeing Venice after the day-trippers have left and before they're arrived is the really magical part

3. Wander around and get lost: Below I'll list some of my Venice highlights but I think the best way to experience the city is the wander its maze-like alleys and get lost. Don't feel like you need to see every sight or instagram photo stop - make your own

Table of Contents

1. Sleep

2. See and do

3. Eat

4. Getting around

5. Map

Sleep

Venice is a super-walkable city, and seeing it on foot is where the true magic comes. I highly recommend staying within walking distance of Piazza San Marco. We stayed in Hotel La Fenice et Des Artistes, a beautiful, clean and comfortable hotel that cost about £100/ night in peak season. You can find a huge number of hotels for all types of budgets, some (like Hotel Daniell) which have even featured in Bond movies.

See and Do

1. Piazza San Marco

The heart and soul of Venice. I recommend getting here as early in the morning as you can manage to avoid crowds. Take in the beautiful, symmetrical buildings around you and enjoy some people watching. Given this is tourist central, it's good to be aware of scams around (the classic one is people dressed up, offering to take a photo with you for a fee).

While you're here, take a stroll between the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Campanile toward the Venetian Lagoon - you’ll find yourself on the Riva degli Schiavoni and facing the iconic parked row of gondolas.

Turn left and and you'll see the Ponte della Paglia bridge, from where you'll see the iconic Bridge of Sighs view.

2. Doge's Palace

This pink and white marble Gothic-Renaissance building was the official residence of the doges, the rulers of Venice for more than 1,000 years. Inside, you'll find the Golden Staircase, Scala d’Oro, one of the world’s most richly decorated staircases, and a beautiful view of the Bridge of Sighs. You'll also see museum exhibits, reception rooms, the Doge’s Apartments and 16th century Venetian art. We opted not to visit for two reasons: first because it was a 40 degree weekend and the palace was quite crowded and not air-conditioned and second because we were more keen on strolling around the lanes and canals. If you're interested in art, and/or you have more than 2 days in the city, Doge's palace may be a perfect stop for you.

3. St Mark's Basilica

If you're a fan of large, awe-inspiring Italian basilica's, St Mark’s should be on your list. Construction began in the 9th century, and you can see its beautiful Gothic-style architecture inside and out. The interior is decorated with Byzantine mosaics (over 8,000 square meters of it) and marble columns and stunning artwork across the domed ceilings. The golden mosaic pieces are actually made of gold: each one has a thin gold leaf 'sandwiched' between two layers of clear glass.

A few tips to visit in the most effective way

• Arrive early and stand in line (the line is in the shade so it's tolerable on a summer day). We arrived by 9am and were in at about 9.30am. If you get there later you may be waiting for over an hour (especially in peak season)

• Dress appropriately: As with most Italian churches, shoulders and knees should be covered. Bringing along a shawl and wearing a longer dress is often a good way to go. For men, longer shorts are generally accepted. If you aren't appropriately geared up, there are a few street stalls outside the basilica which sell shawls (for inflated prices)

4. St Mark's Bell Tower/ St Mark's Campanile

The view from the top of St Mark's tower is well worth the price. Also, amazingly, there are no steps involved - the entire journey up is in an elevator. This is a huge benefit especially on stifling hot Venetian days.

5. A Gondola ride

Oh the Gondola ride. You can't live with it, and you can't live without it. There are official, set prices for Gondola rides so haggling won't really do you any good. Rides are €80 for 25 minutes before 7pm and €100 after 7pm. Also, note that some gondoliers will charge you more. You'll also have to pay more if you want your gondolier to sing for you. There are two ways to experience a gondola ride without paying as much:

1. Convincing another set of travellers to share the ride with you

2. Pre-book a shared gondola ride on GetYourGuide. We used this method and shared a ride with another couple. This cost about ~£50 for two people saving about €20.

It's a romantic, calm experience which I would recommend (especially if the first thing you think of when you think of Venice is 'Gondolas'). If you visit in summer, take a gondola ride in the evening so you don't boil.

6. Rialto Bridge

This is literally a big bridge. There's a spot on the corner of Ponte de Rialto and Salizzada Pio X where a queue will form to take the typical Rialto bridge photo. It's nice, but it's busy and honestly it's not as breathtaking when you've spent a day walking along and across bridges.

A few other less popular things to do in Venice include

6. Musee Correr: In St Marks' Square, dedicated to Venice’s civic history

7. Procuratie Vecchie: Also in St Mark's Square including exhibition and events spaces and public reading rooms.

8. Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute: A 17th century church dedicated to Virgin Mary saving Venice from the plague.

9. Ca’ Rezzonico: A museum of 18th Century Venice

10. Murano, Torcello, Burano & the Lido: the other islands around Venice, known for glassmaking and colourful houses

11. Ponte Dell'Accademia: One of the four bridges to span the Grand Canal, I think it's worth seeing, especially early in the day when it's peaceful

Eat

Seafood dominates Venetian menus (understanadably enough). Cicchetti are also typical Venetian, small plates or finger foods accompanied by a glass of wine or Spritz. These are served in bacari: informal, back street bars or taverns.

Other recommended places to eat include:

1. Rossopomodoro: The famous Neapolitan chain (but I think it's still made better in Italy)

2. Pizzería Sansovino: Cheap and cheerful pizza by the slice, especially useful for late night cravings

3. Gelato fantasy: Great gelato

4. Gelato di Natura: Because there's never enough gelato

5. Gelatoteca Suso: Really, never enough gelato

6. Dal Moro's Pasta to go: Of TikTok fame (for some reason), but the pasta is excellent and affordable

7. Ristorante Rossa Rossa: A great place for a variety of dishes - pizza, seafood and seafood pasta

...but honestly Venice is a very touristy city so you can get most types of food and most of it will be good. It won't be the best quality you've ever tasted (go to Bologna for that) but it will be beautiful.

Getting around

Venice is for walking (or wandering aimlessly and getting very lost). If you need to travel a longer distance (for example from Piazza San Marco to the train station) take a water bus (or Vaporetto). Tickets aren't cheap (at about €7.50 each) and if you travel in the middle of the day it can be crowded and unpleasant. That said, if you travel late in the evening this can be an absolutely magical way to travel down the Grand Canal without paying for a water taxi (which can cost up to €70).

If you're arriving or leaving Venice from the airport, note that this is on the 'mainland'. Take the ACTV line 5 bus from Venice train station to the airport.

Map