5 Idyllic Stops on a Cotswolds weekend (including a map!)

1. Bourton-on-the-water

The “Venice of the Cotswolds” and idyllic honey-coloured village. The internet warns of large crowds however we didn’t experience this when we visited in winter. Walk along the river windrush, take photos, feed the ducks, play with other visiting dogs and enjoy the serenity. If you’re in a sightseeing mood you have an option to visit the model village and a motoring museum

2. Lower and Upper slaughter

My favourite villages because they were smaller and relatively untouched. Many movies have been filmed in the slaughters for that reason (including 2020’s Emma). The name of the villages has nothing to do with killings but rather the word slaughter is derived from the old English word slohtre which means ‘muddy place’. And a word of warning - if you intend to walk between the slaughters and it’s been raining at all, wear gum boots. The walk itself is quite beautiful and passes through various pieces of land. Highlights in upper slaughter include the 13th century church.

3. Stow-on-the-wold

The highest and coldest of the Cotswolds towns at 800ft, Stow was also an important Roman trading centre and prior to that was likely a Bronze Age fort. Markets (especially sheep trading) have been taking place in the market square since at least 1107. Our favourite part about stow was the Porch house, the oldest inn, running since 946ad. Book early! The catch is that when it began in 946AD it was a hospice so if you’ve seen other claims of “oldest restaurants/ inns”. Other very interesting things to see in Stow include “digbeth street” which literally translates to ducks bath and refers to the blood that flower down the street from the masses of dead and injured after the 1646 English civil war. Also notice the 15th century penal stocks in the square which weee used to humiliate criminals and “unruly artisans”.

4. Cirencester

Formally known as Corinium Dobunnorum, in Roman times this was the second biggest town in England (after Londonium). The main tourist attraction is the remains of an ancient Roman amphitheatre. The key word is “remains” because what’s left is a large grassy bowl, but the enormity is apparent - in the 2nd century it was an enormous show space with capacity for 8,000 spectators. We were lucky enough to walk into Cirencester when a 45 minute long quarter peal was ringing ahead of a celebration of the life of Vaughn Williams. There is something magical about walking through an English town with church bells ringing, especially when headed to an excellent Sunday roast. We ate at the fleece inn, which was absolutely wonderful.

5. Rodmarton (windmill tump) longbarrow

A 6,000 year old burial site may not be on everyone’s list of top tourist attractions but as a prehistory geek it was truly a dream come true and I’m obliged to share this with the world. The long barrow was used be early English farming communities in the Neolithic period and there is evidence that it continued to be used in Roman times. 13 skeletons have been found in the longbarrow and interestingly the eastern end contains a “false entrance”. My husband is by no means a prehistory nerd but even he felt chills. It’s a really special place. There’s a signed footpath leading from a car lane way running west from rodmarton. As with other places in the Cotswolds, be prepared for a muddy walk.

Other notable but less critical stops

1. Moreton in marsh: I dragged my husband here purely to see the inn where King Charles didn’t pay his fare. I wouldn’t say this is important but it’s worth a stop if it’s on your way

2. Bibury: this is tourist central and a lot of busses stop here and only here to take an obligatory photo of the Arlington row of houses, originally built as a wool store in 1380 and converted to weavers cottages in the 17th century. It’s a beautiful place, good to tick off the list and definitely good value for a photo op, but to really experience the Cotswolds I recommend any of the other, less tourist ridden towns

A Handy Map